Stonehenge and Bath

The OSAP program went on its 2nd of 4 trips this past weekend [*now many weekends ago*], this one to Stonehenge and the city of Bath. I thought the trip was very nice, but a lot of people thought the sheep garzing in a nearby field were the highlight of the day.

I suppose old rocks don't do it for everyone.




Stonehenge was very VERY cold. So cold that I got halfway through the first audioguide speech before calling it quits and returning my hands to their pockets. I honestly don't understand why so many students were disappointed, since that implies they had some sort of expectations that were not fulfilled. It was exactly what I expected. They're rocks; they're not going to put on a show for us. I think the true grandeur of the site is crippled by the fact that it is such a prominent tourist site. Just imagine if you came upon those rocks at random while taking a stroll through a field... pretty awe-inspiring. I mean, I was impressed enough by pillars of rocks someone had taken the trouble to stack in a creek at Old Elicott City, MD (=a lovely place. I highly recommend it if you're ever in the area). Anywho, we were only at the Henge for a little while, enough time to make a slow lap around the circle and peruse the gift shop.







Then we made the arduous treck (and by 'arduous treck' I mean a snoozey ride in a double-decker bus) to see the Roman Baths at Bath. Needless to say, they were pretty cool. I somewhat felt that the site was not particularly explanatory, for example about which baths served which function, but admittedly I did once again ignored the audioguide, which may have been more enlightening. There were several half-excavated areas on display, which made me nostalgic for my Rome days. The pictures I took would've been very helpful a few months ago when I wrote about these baths for Carol NdeV, but such is life. Like a good tourist, I bought a bottle of the bath water, which I shall of course keep for posterity.


The actual city of Bath was quite impressive. Some of the people on the trip even went so far as to say that it looked nicer than Oxford... I don't know if I'd quite agree with that, but its bigger city feel was a nice change. As night set on at its early winter hour, we walked the streets and came upon Bath's famous Roman bridge and some adorable tea and leather shops before the sleepy bus ride home.

An Introduction to Oxford

I feel the best way to summarize my experience in Oxford thus far would be to tell you the little anecdote of how one day when I was reading a book in one of the University libraries, on one of the pages someone had crossed out the word ‘less’ in the text and petulantly scrawled ‘fewer!’ in the margin.

Take that as you will.


So. I suppose I should explain something about the educational system here. Rather than classes, the student’s schedule consists of tutorials, which are private meetings with an assigned tutor in the subject of your choice. The term generally includes a primary tutorial which meets once weekly, and a secondary tutorial which meets once a fortnight. (My tutorials are studying the archaeology of the Roman Empire outside of Italy, and Greco-Roman religion.) A reading list and an essay are assigned for every tutorial, so that in the brief eight-week term, twelve essays are written. Additionally, there are a multitude of lectures in every subject offered daily, which are open to the general student body and, in some cases, the public. So basically, the term is what you make of it, and relies heavily upon your own initiative. Well that’s enough of the mechanics of it. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.


My particular college (I believe there are 38 that make up Oxford University) is Christ Church…which is a rather large and prestigious one, if I do say so myself. Excepting a certain Fish Fiasco, in which my roommate and I were clapped in shackles and hauled off to the dungeon for taking a picture of a fish in the courtyard’s fountain, Christ Church is a lovely place. For you Harry Potter fans, the dining hall was the basis for Harry Potter’s great hall, and the scene where Harry and Malfoy meet for the first time was filmed on the steps there. Lewis Carroll also studied there, and the characters from Alice in Wonderland are in one of the dining hall’s stained glass windows. Einstein taught there for a brief time as well. And the poet W. H. Auden, who wrote the poem “The Shield of Achilles”, which I read for my terrible interview with Oxford some four years ago. Ironic.

Unfortunately I don’t live in the college, but rather a pit of an apartment complex, twenty minutes (on foot) from the center of town. But luckily there’s an absolutely gorgeous meadow nearby, which, as a local told us, was documented by William the Conqueror in his surveys of 1067/8 because every year in the winter the meadow becomes a lake, and in the summer it dries up. Pretty cool to be looking upon the same sight as people did nearly a thousand years ago.

So far, my favorite places are the meadow, the botanical gardens (which are free like most of the museums here), and the rock bar that offers heavy metal karaoke on Monday nights. (Say, today is a Tuesday…)The OSAP program took a trip to London two Saturdays ago, but I felt like I only saw the ghost of the city, so I’m going to go back and explore it more thoroughly. Tomorrow’s slated for another day of Oxford exploration, and this Saturday, OSAP is taking us to Stonehenge and Bath. I’m pretty excited!

That’s all for now.

less fewer!

-Cindy

PS I will update this when I bloody well please.

Whose English and When It Matters

It seems when people travel to English-speaking countries, the most noticeable differences are ones that don’t matter very much. So you say “hob” and I say “stove.” I call that arrangement of stars “The Big Dipper” and you call it “The Plow.” You say “ye” and I thought no one had used that form of the verb since King James’ Bible. In the end, though, it highlights our similarities more than our differences, because there’s no cultural confusion: we just have two ways of saying the exact same thing.
There are times, though, when two ways of saying the same thing can matter a lot. A few weeks ago I went to the island of Cape Clear, the southernmost inhabited point in Ireland. I was there for a storytelling workshop hosted by an American named Chuck Kruger, and attended by around ten people from the storytelling community in Ireland and England. Nearly every person there had a different accent, from thick country Irish to a sincere Cockney. It was an incredible experience, but I had one problem: due to a fluke in the off-season bus schedule, it was not possible for me to get back to Cork. I could get to Cape Clear without a problem, but there was no bus back. So I explained my situation at dinner and asked for a ride.

To their credit, the Irishmen kept straight faces while we worked out transportation logistics, but Gerry couldn’t help grinning when he explained I really couldn’t use that wording anymore. “In Ireland, needing a ride means you want to have sex.”
“If I ask for a lift, is that better or worse?”
They all lost it. Daphne said where she’s from they sometimes ask for a spin, thus avoiding the awkwardness of both ride and lift. Nina, an American girl currently living in Dublin, wondered how you would say “ride a horse” if you can’t use those words, and Noona (eighty years old, wears a crocheted cap) went into a fit of giggles and didn’t recover for a solid five minutes.
Luckily I had the ultimate payback: “It goes both ways you know. When Kate told us that story about the nun who liked her fags…”*

For your further edification, here is an incomplete introduction to Irish phraseology:
Give out: Another phrase that sounds funny but is completely innocent. It means to give someone a hard time. “I suppose I can’t give out about burning the Thanksgiving turkey, since I messed up the sweet potatoes.”
Your man: This is not establishing any ownership over the man, it’s just a way of referring to someone male. “Isn’t that your man from the pub last night?”
Lads: Just like we say “guys,” this does not say anything about the gender of the people in question. In fact, the lads might all be girls. “We’ll stay here a moment and wait for the lads.”
Laughs: When something is a laugh, it is fun or entertaining, not necessarily humorous. “That trip was a laugh.”
Fair play: Roughly “good job.” “I succeeded in putting photos up on Facebook! Fair play to me.”
Didn’t he…: This is a trick where you turn whatever your main point is into a question. I think it’s for emphasis, because you’re not expected to answer. You might not even know the answer. “We were walking back from the second pub, and didn’t your man fall right down the hill?”
Ah sure: Thrown in front of things every once in a while, for good measure. “Obama says ‘Yes we can,’ Irish politicians say ‘Ah sure, we’ll think about it and get back to you in a week.’” (Direct quote—this was not me. I would never confuse Obama with Bob the Builder.)
Thanks be to God: Peppers the speech of Irish people of a certain generation. Gaelic speakers tended to say “Thanks be to God” (it is somewhat shorter in Gaelic) frequently, and I think the tendency translated into English. “It’s cold but it’s not wet, thanks be to God.”

*The nun in question was fond of cigarettes.

Amsterdam: The Museums, a guide?

This will be a rather brief (as brief as I can make it) summary of a trip I took with one of my art history classes (Genre Painting, heavy emphasis on Dutch painting) to Amsterdam, the Netherlands. The trip was a lot of fun, especially because, as one of three Americans (and the only one to stay the whole trip), I was forced to make friends with Irish students. By Saturday I had been adopted into the group and was being taught (possibly futilely) to speak with an Irish accent and various slang terms. It was quite the experience, filled with much laughter, and one somehow appropriate to the pub location.

The city itself was AMAZING! I had never been before, so it was all new to me. You could tell that it was the holiday season because the whole city already had its Christmas lights up. Most small side streets were lined with lights, even the notorious Red Light District had its own lights (red lights with a big 'W' in the middle, de Wallen is the name of that area in Dutch).

The purpose of the trip was to look at art, of course, so most of our trip was spent going to the Museum District of the city by tram. We went twice to the Rijksmuseum (if you should ever think of going there, make it a whole day trip because it's the most expensive museum in that area and they don't let you back in even with a ticket from that day once you leave), and while the museum was laid out in a thought-provoking and well-planned manner, most of the building is under restoration, meaning that only a small part of their collection is out for viewing. This makes the amount you pay to get in even more ridiculous because you don't even get to see everything. Wait until 2013 to go back, when the whole thing will be done, because it will be amazing, since this building is enormous.

The Historical Museum had an interesting exhibit on the history of men's fashion from the beginning of the Republic to modern day in Amsterdam. The waist coats and hats were cool, and I would have spent more time looking at it had a large group of fashion design students not been occupying the entire floor area.

We also went to the Van Gogh museum which had a moving exhibit called "Illusions of Reality" that focused on various medias illustration of people's lives during the 1800s, especially the period of Van Gogh's life. The purpose was to show what might have influenced his style and subject choices. This applies mostly to his first phase of painting.

However, the Stedelijk Museum (their modern art museum) was by far the best museum of them all. The building is apparently just their temporary location, which explains the numerous empty rooms. I just walked through and would comment on the white color of choice in the room, debating if it was ivory, egg shell, etc. The rooms that were occupied more than made up for those rooms, though. My two favorite rooms were the one covered floor to ceiling in giant black and white quotes and the one in which my height was marked on a wall. They were even on the floor! And we were allowed to take pictures of everything, so it was just a wonderland for all of the girls in this group.
The other room was a work in progress, and pretty much every visitor who comes in picks a place along the wall for their height to be marked and then labeled with their name and date. It certainly showed me how very average my height is.


I also visited Amsterdam's Cat Museum, which was very fab. It was all art inspired by cats, and then real cats who lived there. I ended up sitting on a couch and petting one cat for a good 15-20 minutes. Worth going to if you are a cat lover, though it is off the beaten path.

That basically sums up my museum trip of Amsterdam. In Haarlem (a most adorable town, one I highly recommend), we went to the Frans Hals museum which was rather, eh. It was well laid out, but not my preferred style so I was not blown away.

(For more pictures, look to Facebook. Either friend me or grab someone who is friends with me to look at them. Erika is always a good choice :) )

Amadea

AMRS Movie, Take 2!

Hello again everyone!

The second AMRS movie night was a blast! We watched The Secret of the Kells, which is an animated movie "set in medieval Ireland. This movie tells the adventure of Brendan and a celebrated master illuminator of manuscripts who arrives with a book brimming with secret wisdom and powers. Magic, fantasy, and Celtic mythology come together in a riot of color and detail that dazzle the eyes in a sweeping story about the power of imagination and faith to carry humanity through dark times." In other words, it was just awesome. :) The animation and colors were fantastic. My favorite character was Pangur Ban, the white cat who belongs to the master illuminator and, later, Brendan. Pangur provided comic moments throughout the film by acting like a typical cat.

And to make this second movie even better, Dr. DeMarco cooked a delicious pork butt, cumin carrots, and mashed potatoes with a secret ingredient, which shall not be disclosed (it is secret after all). The food was absolutely soooo good!

Everyone had a wonderful time and enjoyed the fantastic food!

I did some amazing traveling this week and am preparing to do some more, but in the spirit of All Hallow's Eve I want to talk about something more terrifying than ghouls or ghosts: IMMIGRATION.

One semester is not very long to live in Ireland. However, it is slightly longer than 90 days, which is the maximum amount of time you can spend here as a tourist or visitor. When you get off the plane, you go through customs, where they ask your business in Ireland and when you'll be leaving, and your passport is stamped. Because we are right on the borderline of that 90 day limit, the whole process comes down to who is standing in the customs booth that day and how they are feeling. If you're lucky, they give you a stamp for 90 days, write in the day you leave, and spare you the trouble of having to acquire a visa. Or they could give you a stamp that requires you to obtain a visa within two months. Or, if it's me, they give one month.

A month is not unreasonable, but I didn't realize how time-consuming this process would actually be. To immigrate, you need (are you taking notes?): 150 euro for the processing fee, a passport, a student ID card, a bank statement from an Irish bank with at least 1, 500 euro in it OR a letter of financial responsibility from your sending university, a mini bank statement from the day you apply, and a letter from your insurance company stating your name and your dates of coverage. Right. So. Most kids had a letter from their home university, but OWU doesn't provide that. Nor did they inform me ahead of time what I would need, despite the fact that they've been sending students to this program for years. So I had to open an account with the Bank of Ireland, then give my information to my mother so she could go to my bank in the US and have the money wired, wait for the wire transfer, go in to request a bank statement, wait for the statement to come. This took two weeks. My statement did not arrive before my month was up.

Then the insurance. The document in question absolutely must have your name AND the dates of coverage on it, which is not something my insurance company understood the first time. "This is what we always give to students abroad." Look lady, I told you what I needed. So I waited for a second document. This took three days, two e-mails and an international phone call in which I navigated through five minutes of automated caller assistance.

The Garda (police) Station has a desk where two people deal with immigration from 9 AM to noon and 2 to 4 PM. If you arrive at 2, there is already a line so long that you will not be helped by the time they close at 4. If you get there decently early, you will still be at least an hour in line. To acquire a bank printout from that day meant that I walked three quarters of a mile to the machine and then back to the station before they opened. If you do not have all the necessary paperwork, you will get a full-scale telling-off in the dulcet tones of a Cork accent, something along the lines of, "If you want to stay in the country, you have to abide by the laws of the country. You can't be a burden on the Irish government. If you want to stay in the country--" and so forth. And you will have to come back and do it again.

Essentially, I went through the smoothest immigration process in the world today. I am a student like thousands before me, fairly harmless, English-speaking, here for a short time, unable to legally hold a job, and ready to spend cash. The Irish government is definitely the winner in this situation, and they made it inconvenient enough. Imagine, if you dare, the bureaucratic labyrinth rigged up in the USA.

All I can say is BOO!

AMRS Movie Night! (AKA Free Yummy Food for the Awesome Ones!)

Hi everyone!
On Tuesday the AMRS program had its first movie night of the year and we watched The Return of Martin Guerre. It was a French film from the 80s, and it was really good. It's "a suspenseful tale based on records from 16th century France about a man who abandoned his wife and left his village. Eight years later, he returns, a changed man, more loving than the violent husband of years past. Soon villagers begin to suspect he may not be the man he claims to be, and an investigation unfolds, threatening the new romance and the life of Martin Guerre" (thank you, Dr. DeMarco). It's based on real documents so it's totally historically accurate, which is cool because we all know that all movie that are "historical accurate" aren't really, just "inspired by true events." Right. Whatever.


Anyways, this was a good movie with enough suspense to keep me interested. I didn't even realize that over two hours had passed until the lights went back on. Definitely two thumbs way, way up. :) The acting was great too.

And Dr. DeMarco made her famous lasagna and meatballs, which, as usual, were awesome. Thanks, Dr. DeMarco for feeding us! We appreciate it! (Sorry to the AMRS majors/minors who are currently abroad right now; you missed some great munchies!)

And as you can see, we had a pretty good turn out. Thanks for showing up everyone! It made the movie that much better and more enjoyable!